Article — 19 August 2026
Induction cooktop installation — what's involved electrically and why a sparky needs to do it.
by David Millar · Licensed electrician REC-22849Induction cooktops are the most power-hungry appliance in most kitchens. They are not a plug-in-and-go upgrade — they need a dedicated circuit, the right isolator, and often a switchboard assessment before you buy the unit.
Induction cooktops have largely taken over from gas in new Melbourne kitchens, and the upgrade trend is strong in existing homes too — particularly as gas connections are being phased out. The cooking performance is good, the cleanup is easier, and the running costs make sense. The electrical side, though, is a different story from what most people expect when they walk out of Harvey Norman with a new unit.
Here is what is actually involved, why it matters, and what to sort out before you commit to a purchase.
Why induction cooktops need their own circuit
A standard double power point in your kitchen is on a shared 20A circuit. That circuit feeds multiple outlets — the toaster, kettle, microwave, rangehood, and whatever else is plugged in along the bench. It is not designed to carry a sustained load from a single appliance.
An induction cooktop changes that calculation.
A mid-range 60cm induction cooktop draws 7–8kW at full load. A 90cm four-zone model can draw up to 10kW. Some high-output models used in renovation-quality kitchens reach 14kW. At 230V, 7kW is already 30 amps. That is beyond a standard 20A circuit and well beyond the 10A that a single GPO is rated for.
Connecting an induction cooktop to a standard power point is genuinely dangerous. The socket, the plug, and the circuit wiring are all under-rated for the load. The result is heat — in the socket face, in the wiring behind the wall, or in the circuit breaker. Over time that means insulation damage, arcing, or fire.
The correct installation is a dedicated circuit, sized and protected for the appliance.
What the electrical work involves
Circuit sizing
The standard configuration for a residential induction cooktop is a 32A or 40A dedicated circuit, depending on the appliance's rated current. The circuit breaker at the switchboard matches the circuit rating. The cable is typically 6mm² TPS (thermoplastic sheathed) from the board to the kitchen — heavier than the 2.5mm² used for standard power circuits.
Some larger units require a 50A circuit, so check the installation manual for your specific model before booking the electrical work. Manufacturer specs vary.
Wiring run
The cable runs from the switchboard through the ceiling or wall cavity to the kitchen. In most homes this is a straightforward run, but in multi-storey homes or homes with limited ceiling access it can be more involved. A new conduit chase through tiled or rendered surfaces adds time and material. Factor this into your budget, especially in older homes where the ceiling space is constrained.
Double-pole isolator
AS/NZS 3000 requires a double-pole isolating switch for fixed cooking appliances. The isolator must be within sight of the appliance and accessible without reaching past the cooktop — typically on the splashback wall directly adjacent to the unit.
A double-pole isolator disconnects both the active and neutral conductors simultaneously, so the appliance is fully de-energised when switched off. This is a mandatory requirement, not optional. Single-pole switches do not satisfy the standard.
The isolator is surface-mounted or flush-mounted and wired to the dedicated circuit. The cooktop then connects to the isolator via an outlet or flex — depending on whether the unit is hardwired or cord-connected.
Switchboard capacity
Before running a new 32–40A circuit, we look at the existing switchboard. The questions are:
- Are there spare breaker slots? Many switchboards installed in the 1990s and early 2000s are near or at capacity. A new circuit needs a breaker slot.
- Is the main switch and consumer mains supply rated for the additional load? If your home already runs near the limit of its service capacity, adding a 40A cooktop circuit may push you over.
- Is the board in good condition? If the board is ceramic fused, overcrowded, or showing signs of heat damage, the right answer is to upgrade it as part of the job rather than add to an already stressed installation.
A switchboard that is at capacity is not a reason to abandon the cooktop upgrade — it is a reason to scope the work properly from the start. Switchboard upgrades are common in this situation and add to the project cost, but they also solve problems you would have run into eventually regardless.
The gas connection is a separate trade
If you are replacing a gas cooktop, the gas disconnection and cap-off is not electrical work. It needs a licensed gasfitter. In Victoria, working on gas appliances and piping requires a gas fitting licence, separate from an electrical licence.
Most electrical contractors do not hold gas licences. You need to arrange the gasfitter separately, or use a company that employs both trades. The gasfitter caps off the supply line, and the electrical work runs independently.
Do not assume one trade covers both. And do not leave the gas line live and capped at the appliance end — have the gasfitter isolate it properly at the meter or at a suitable sub-shutoff.
AS/NZS 3000 requirements that apply here
The Wiring Rules cover cooking appliances specifically under the fixed equipment sections. Key requirements:
- Dedicated circuit: fixed cooking appliances must be on a circuit serving only that appliance
- Double-pole isolation: required within sight of and adjacent to the appliance
- Flexible cord and outlet: where the appliance is cord-connected, the outlet must be rated for the current draw and positioned so the flex does not contact the cooktop surface
- RCD protection: required for all circuits in kitchens under the current Wiring Rules — this means your new circuit needs RCD protection at the board
These are not optional requirements. An installation that skips the isolator or uses an undersized outlet does not comply and would fail an inspection.
Why not just use a 15A or 20A GPO?
Some smaller induction units — typically two-zone models — are designed to draw under 10A and are sold as cord-connected plug-in appliances. These are legitimately designed for a standard 10A or 15A GPO and do not require a dedicated circuit. Read the specification carefully before assuming your unit falls into this category.
For anything with three or more induction zones, or any unit that the manufacturer does not explicitly rate as suitable for a standard GPO, assume you need a dedicated circuit. The manufacturer's installation manual will specify.
What to sort out before you buy
The single most useful thing you can do before purchasing an induction cooktop is have an electrician look at your kitchen and switchboard. The questions to answer are:
- Is there an existing circuit that the new cooktop can use, or does a new circuit need to be run?
- What is the condition and capacity of the switchboard?
- Where will the isolator go, and is there a practical routing for the cable?
- If replacing gas, is the gasfitter organised?
Getting these answers before purchase means you select a unit that suits your electrical setup, not one that requires more work than you budgeted for. Buying a 14kW cooktop when your board is at capacity and needs a $1,500 upgrade is a different project than buying a unit that runs on your existing infrastructure.
What the job typically looks like
A standard induction cooktop installation where a new circuit is required involves:
- Switchboard work: install breaker and RCD protection
- Cable run from board to kitchen (typically 6mm² TPS)
- Install and connect double-pole isolator
- Connect and commission the appliance
- Test and certify the installation
The time involved depends heavily on the cable routing. A straightforward single-storey home with easy ceiling access takes a few hours. A multi-storey home or one with constrained access takes longer.
If the board needs upgrading, that is a separate scope and quote — typically a half-day or full-day job depending on what is being replaced.
If you are planning an induction cooktop upgrade and want to know what the electrical work involves for your specific home, get in touch via our power points and kitchen wiring page and we can assess it properly before you commit to anything.